Pattern Instructions: Halloween Little Cat Doll for Dolls

Hello, these are visual instruction on how to make a cute little cat plush for your dolls. I will do my best to walk you through how to make this little cat doll along with two dresses to fit 25cm Obitsu medium bust body.

My etsy shop name is Ruffled Crenellations

https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/RuffledCrenellations?ref=l2-about-shopname

Basic sewing knowledge and terminology are recommended for effective usage of this pattern.

Please note: this pattern does not have seam allowance, so be sure to add some before cutting the pieces out.

Supplies used for this project:

- a needle & threads

- several pins

- sharp sewing scissors, big and small

- an iron and ironing board

- a pencil crayon or fabric drawing pencil

- printed or plain cotton fabrics

- a small piece of scrap felt 

- cotton lace

- fabric glue 

- a stick or skewer and paint brush to spread and smear glue across fabric

- snaps or velcro

- string

- ribbon

- beads

- a little bit of cotton balls, stuffing or whole fiber 

For younger crafters, be sure to have adult supervision when working with sharp or hot tools.

Please note: Add seam allowance to all pieces excluding the cat tail, cat ear interior felt pieces, skirts, skirt ruffles and sleeve cuffs.

Hand-stitching is recommended but can be sewn with a machine.

Pattern pieces are numbered for ease of comprehension of these directions.

 On back side of a piece of fabric trace with a pencil the four cat pattern pieces 

NOTE: the pattern does not have seam allowance, so be sure to leave some before cutting them out.

Next, cut a long rectangle for tail and two small triangles out of felt. These will be the inside padding for the cat's ears and do not need seam allowance.

1- Take the two front pieces and line them up good side to good side.

Pin them together making sure the drawn seam lines match on both sides.

Then sew on the drawn seam line marked 1.

Note: I sew with small backstitch for best results, but this project can be done with a straight stitch if it's preferred.

Cut darts (notches) into the seam allowance, being careful not to cut too close to the stitched seam line.

Now open up the front pieces and finish the seam by pressing it with an iron.

Repeat this process with the two back pieces.

2- Take the two back pieces and line them up good side to good side.

Pin the pieces together, making sure the drawn seam lines match on both sides.

Then sew on the drawn seam line marked 2.

IMPORTANT NOTE: leave the small space marked tail hole open.

Cut darts into seam allowance.

Now open up the back pieces and finish the seam by pressing it with an iron.

Using fabric glue on the back side of the fabric (which will be the inside of the cat), glue the two little pre-cut pieces of felt onto the ears

and allow to the glue dry.

Once the glue has dried, line up the cat doll front and back pieces together good side to good side, then pin them together, making sure the drawn lines match up on both sides.

Picture of back

3- Sew on the seam lines marked 3 on the pattern, leaving one side open.

Picture of back of sewn pieces

Cut darts into seam allowance, being careful not to cut too close the the sewn seam line.

Next, carefully and slowly turn the cat doll body right side out through the small hole that was left open on one side.

This is most effectively accomplished with the aid of a skewer or chopstick, inserting the tool in through the opening and gently pushing the fabric right side out. Tip: When turning cat body right side out, turn the leg nearest to the opening through the hole first, then slowly and carefully, one at a time push the other appendages through. 

Once the plush is turned right side out, make sure to switch to a chopstick or other blunt-ended tool to push the tips of the legs and ears out fully.

View of the front

View of the back

Stuff the plush with cotton balls, stuffing or whole fibers using a thin skewer.

Take a little bit of cotton at at time and fill the arms and legs first, followed by the head, then finishing with the torso.

View of the front fully stuffed

View of the back fully stuffed

With needle and thread use a blanket stitch to close the open hole on the side.

Tie off the knot.

Let's give 'em a face!

Thread a needle with a different colour of thread and knot the end.

Pass the needle in through the tail hole at the back, through the interior and poke the needle out of the head where you want the first eye to be

like this.

Now slide a bead onto the needle and down the thread. Then sew, passing the needle through the bead hole and into the fabric a couple of times.

Then sew through the bead hole one last time, but this time when the needle is inside the doll's head, have it come back out through the fabric where you would like the second eye to be.

Repeat the process used for the first eye to affix another bead.

This time on the final eye stitch you'll want the needle to exit where the nose is going to be.

Stitch through the fabric there a few times to get a nicely visible little nose shape.

On last stitch, enter through the nose and exit where the mouth is going to start.

Using a backstitch, stitch a cute little mouth shape across the cat doll's face.

On the final mouth stitch, pass the needle back through the body, exiting through the tail hole.

Cut the thread.

Going back to the face, you can quickly add whiskers by passing a thread and needle through where you want your whiskers to be and then cutting the thread.

They will be loose, with nothing holding them in place for a moment, so please be sure not to accidently pull them out.

Now, get a little bit of fabric glue and a toothpick.

Using the toothpick, dab a bit of glue on the whisker holes and a bit on the corner of mouth where final stitch was sewn.

Allow the glue to dry.

For the cat's tail, on the back side of a piece of fabric apply a thin layer of fabric glue with a paintbrush.

Then, roll it into long tube.

Flip the cat doll over to its back and apply fabric glue in the tail hole.

Push the tail in, bend it a little and allow the glue to dry.

And if purrr-furred add a little bow and done!!😻

Pattern Instructions: Blouse/ Shirt for 27cm Obitsu SBH small bust Doll Body

Hello, these are visual instructions on how to make a blouse for a 27cm Obitsu SBH small bust doll body. Patterns are available for sale at my Etsy shop. I will demonstrate how to make the blouse for a cute three-piece outfit complete with accessories for your doll.💖

Etsy shop name: Ruffled Crenellations

https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/RuffledCrenellations?ref=l2-about-shopname

Basic sewing skills and knowledge of terminology are recommended for use of this pattern.

Note: this pattern does not have seam allowance, be sure to add some before cutting the pieces out.

Patterns will be available at my Etsy shop soon as they are ready.

Supplies used for shirt (blouse):

- a needle & thread

- some pins 

- sharp sewing scissors, big and small

- a drawing tool

- thin cotton fabric

- thin cotton lace

- fabric glue 

- a stick or skewer to spread glue across fabric

- snaps or velcro

- ribbon

For younger crafters be sure to have adult supervision when working with sharp or hot things.

Note: Add seam allowance to all pieces excluding the panties, skirt, skirt ruffle, shirt yoke and all shoe pieces.

Hand-stitching is recommended.

Pattern pieces are numbered for ease of comprehension of sewing instructions.

The final piece: the blouse 

Trace the shirt front pattern on the back side of a piece of fabric and cut it out, leaving seam allowance.

Then trace both of the pieces for the shirt back, leaving seam allowance.

19- Good side to good side, sew with a backstitch on seam line 19 for both shoulder pieces.  

It should look like this when sewn

Then cut out two pieces for the sleeves, leaving seam allowance.

Cut two pieces for cuffs and fold them in half with their good sides facing out.

Note: I drew a visible seam line to guide where to sew for the tutorial.

20- Line up sleeve seam line 20 with the open raw end of cuff 20, find the centre and pin them good side to good side.

Back side view

Right side view

20- Gather the sleeve with a straight stitch and pin across the cuff.

20- Flip to the other side and sew across on the drawn seam line

20- like this.

Now take the pins out and flip the cuff up so the raw edges will be hidden inside the sleeve.

Right side view

Back side view

21- Next, we are going to pin the sleeve to the centre shoulder, good side to good side. Gather and line up piece 21 to 21 and sew

21- like this.

A view of the back when it's flipped over

21- On the back side, gather and pin the sleeve to the arm hole and sew.

I use a straight stitch to gather and then a backstitch when sewing to keep the very thin fabric I'm using from fraying.

A view from the other side

21- Like this.

A view of the right side

21- Now repeat the process for the other sleeve.

A view of the inside

A view of the outside

Put the piece aside and continue to the next step.

22- Cut out the circle yoke piece. Draw a circle at the neck hole and a line to demark the line at the narrowest part that will function as the opening at the back of the shirt.

Flip the yoke piece over to its back side and brush fabric glue on the fabric where the line is drawn. Allow the glue to dry.

When the glue has dried, flip the yoke piece back over to its good side and cut on line. The glue will prevent the fabric from fraying.

Glue or sew lace along the edge of the yoke, giving time to allow the glue to dry if you chose that method.

Cut darts on the inside of the hole drawn on the yoke. Be sure not to cut too close to the line.

Mark the centre front of the shirt and yoke with pins.

Line them up good side of yoke to back side of shirt.

22- Making sure the drawn seam line on both pieces match up, pin and sew on the small round seam line 22 on the yoke.

Which ought to end up looking roughly like this.

Flip the piece over to the other side.

22- Carefully cut darts around the neck hole facilitating the ease of turning the yoke (shirt collar). Turn the yoke out and have it lay flat.

After turning the collar out, pin it down.

Flip it to its back side, dart and turn the seam allowances.

The yoke does not reach all the way to the centre back pieces on both sides, so cut darts on the seam allowance and fold them in.

Turn it back around to its front and sew with a backstitch along the edge of the neck hole 

which should look like this.

A close-up view

A view of the back

23- With the back side out, pin all sides of shirt seam lines 23 and sew them

like this.

Flip the shirt over and turn it right side out.

It's looking nice

Flip it over to its back.

Turn the raw centre back seam allowance in, creasing along the seam line. Pin it into place.

Repeat for the other centre back side.

With everything all pinned into place, use a backstitch to make the edges look neat and tidy

like this.

For the bottom of the shirt, I do the same: fold the seam allowance in, creasing on the drawn seam line and pinning it into place.

Then sew with a backstitch along the bottom edge.

Add one snap or piece of velcro to the upper back of the shirt, as the rest of the shirt will be tucked in underneath the bodice and skirt.

Add a fancy bow to the front and its all done!